Gray and overcast when I leave Jyvaskayla. I skirt the lake via well marked paths, then somehow get on the wrong road again. You can never let your guard down here. The back track is five miles and I am not happy about it. I join the main route to Kuopio, but here the shoulder is almost nonexistent and the Friday traffic is roaring by at a high clip. I take a detour on a less traveled road, which goes through sparcely populated areas with little traffic. I pass big stacks of neatly stacked firewood. There is little doubt how people get through the winter here.
I camp at a beautiful spot at the Rometrio Campground not far from the town of Pieksänmaa. The sun comes out. After making dinner in the camp kitchen, I watched a loon on the glinting waters of the lake. I sleep in on Saturday, and don't break camp until about 10 a.m. I bike about 200 feet before I stop at a gas station/cafe and have my coffee and roll. Given my new-found respect for the blue roads - on the map national bike routes are in blue - I decide to stick to these routes even though they wind around and grind up hills. They are far less taxing on my nerves than the main highways, many of which have very narrow shoulders. Unfortunately, the signage is inconsistent so it's important to check the maps and landmarks to make sure I'm heading in the right direction. Today is another enjoyable ride through pleasant countryside. In the evening I camp besides a large lake near Leppävirta. Occasionally, on the rides I encounter people walking or pedalling old one-speeds. They look at me with blank expressions, and almost never wave or acknowledge me. I think my appearance is so startling that they don't know what to make of me.
On the third day from Jyvaskalya I awake with a sore throat. I still feel strong, but I realize I am coming down with a cold. The 50 mile ride to Kuopio is against some of the steepest, longest hills I've encountered on the trip. They are monsters. In some places I have no choice but to walk. During one long downhill coast, I flush a large bird rom among the grass roadside. It had a fanned tail with white and black rings against a gray background. Is it a turkey? On another stretch I am over taken by two friendly young Finnish cyclists who are out on a day ride. As usual they ask what brought me to Finland. I said I heard the cycling was good and that the country was relatively flat. I added that I was encountering a lot hills than I expected. I also noted that outside of Åland I had encountered almost no other cross-country cyclists. "Mostly foreigners use the system," replies Maelta. "If a Finn wants to go to Lapland they will drive. But it is a good country to cycle in. It's flat." He made this last statement as we labored up still another hill.
I am not feeling well. My throat makes it difficult to talk. I decide to forgo camping, and check my Lonely Planet for an inexpensive hotel. LP recommends the Railroad Hotel, which, as its name implies, is located at the station. I find the hotel, and check in at the Grilli - the restaurant downstairs. The proprietor who doesn't speak English leads me through a door in the back, up a winding staircase and onto an immaculate second floor landing, with polished wood floors, 1950s retro style furniture and not a speck of dust anywhere. The room is just as nice and very quite. The passenger trains are all electric so they make no noise and they never blow their horn. For the first time I have a chance to watch Finnish television. Guess what? Most of the programs are in English with Finnish subtitles. No wonder all the kids know at least some English.
I camp at a beautiful spot at the Rometrio Campground not far from the town of Pieksänmaa. The sun comes out. After making dinner in the camp kitchen, I watched a loon on the glinting waters of the lake. I sleep in on Saturday, and don't break camp until about 10 a.m. I bike about 200 feet before I stop at a gas station/cafe and have my coffee and roll. Given my new-found respect for the blue roads - on the map national bike routes are in blue - I decide to stick to these routes even though they wind around and grind up hills. They are far less taxing on my nerves than the main highways, many of which have very narrow shoulders. Unfortunately, the signage is inconsistent so it's important to check the maps and landmarks to make sure I'm heading in the right direction. Today is another enjoyable ride through pleasant countryside. In the evening I camp besides a large lake near Leppävirta. Occasionally, on the rides I encounter people walking or pedalling old one-speeds. They look at me with blank expressions, and almost never wave or acknowledge me. I think my appearance is so startling that they don't know what to make of me.
On the third day from Jyvaskalya I awake with a sore throat. I still feel strong, but I realize I am coming down with a cold. The 50 mile ride to Kuopio is against some of the steepest, longest hills I've encountered on the trip. They are monsters. In some places I have no choice but to walk. During one long downhill coast, I flush a large bird rom among the grass roadside. It had a fanned tail with white and black rings against a gray background. Is it a turkey? On another stretch I am over taken by two friendly young Finnish cyclists who are out on a day ride. As usual they ask what brought me to Finland. I said I heard the cycling was good and that the country was relatively flat. I added that I was encountering a lot hills than I expected. I also noted that outside of Åland I had encountered almost no other cross-country cyclists. "Mostly foreigners use the system," replies Maelta. "If a Finn wants to go to Lapland they will drive. But it is a good country to cycle in. It's flat." He made this last statement as we labored up still another hill.
I am not feeling well. My throat makes it difficult to talk. I decide to forgo camping, and check my Lonely Planet for an inexpensive hotel. LP recommends the Railroad Hotel, which, as its name implies, is located at the station. I find the hotel, and check in at the Grilli - the restaurant downstairs. The proprietor who doesn't speak English leads me through a door in the back, up a winding staircase and onto an immaculate second floor landing, with polished wood floors, 1950s retro style furniture and not a speck of dust anywhere. The room is just as nice and very quite. The passenger trains are all electric so they make no noise and they never blow their horn. For the first time I have a chance to watch Finnish television. Guess what? Most of the programs are in English with Finnish subtitles. No wonder all the kids know at least some English.
In the evening I wander around Kuopio, which is a rather large town by Finnish standards (almost 100,000 population). It has a pleasant city square with an outdoor market. Many of the older buildings are wooden with brightly painted window and door trim.
I plan to stay here for at least two days to rest and recuperate. I may even stay a third day, hoping that this cold doesn't get any worse.
I plan to stay here for at least two days to rest and recuperate. I may even stay a third day, hoping that this cold doesn't get any worse.
2 comments:
Sorry about your cold.
Take 2 aspirins and call me in the morning
yes mom
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