It is time to leave Kuopio. I still am not a 100%, but am well enough to resume the journey. My goal is a place called Tahko roughly halfway to Nurmes. From there, it appeares from the map that a boat can take me across Syväri, a huge lake, a massive lake that blocks my route to the North Karelian town of Nurmes. Along the way I pass a mountain of white stuff that resembles snow, then a mountain of reddish-brown stuff, then a huge factory where bags labeled calcium nitrate are waiting to be hauled away by big trucks. I reach Tahko at about 4 pm, but find that the first few inns I check are booked. I also discover that there is no longer boat service across Lake Syväri. This is disappointing. It means a 40 km detour the next day.
I continue my search for a place to spend the night. There is no way I am going to camp in the woods tonight. Massive thunderheads are building on the horizon. I need to get somewhere quick. At the end of the road, I find a massive Sokos Hotel, one of the big mid-luxury chain hotels common in Finland. There will be no pooping in the woods tonight. I check in, and enjoyed my luxury room. This area is like the Lake Tahoe of Finland, full of luxury condos, golf courses, ski runs (currently not in use) cabins and summer homes. And according to the signs and trail maps, a great place to cross country ski. So this is where everyone in Helsinki is spending July!
The next day I decide to shorten my trip by sticking to the main highways and avoiding the blue bike routes. For the first time in nearly a week, I am feeling pretty good. My cold has passed, though I have a few left over coughs. Much to my surprise the E75 has little traffic. The day is rather uneventful; the weather good, though I can see a wall of thunderheads building in the East. By 6 pm I have travelled 60 miles and have reached Nurmes in North Karelia. I have also surpassed the 1,000 mile mark in my trip.
I continue my search for a place to spend the night. There is no way I am going to camp in the woods tonight. Massive thunderheads are building on the horizon. I need to get somewhere quick. At the end of the road, I find a massive Sokos Hotel, one of the big mid-luxury chain hotels common in Finland. There will be no pooping in the woods tonight. I check in, and enjoyed my luxury room. This area is like the Lake Tahoe of Finland, full of luxury condos, golf courses, ski runs (currently not in use) cabins and summer homes. And according to the signs and trail maps, a great place to cross country ski. So this is where everyone in Helsinki is spending July!
The next day I decide to shorten my trip by sticking to the main highways and avoiding the blue bike routes. For the first time in nearly a week, I am feeling pretty good. My cold has passed, though I have a few left over coughs. Much to my surprise the E75 has little traffic. The day is rather uneventful; the weather good, though I can see a wall of thunderheads building in the East. By 6 pm I have travelled 60 miles and have reached Nurmes in North Karelia. I have also surpassed the 1,000 mile mark in my trip.
I camp at place called Bomba (named after a 19th Century Keralian man and not some Spanish song) about two miles south of Nurmes. I decide to stay an extra day before setting out for Kuhmo. It is pleasant enough here next to another giant lake, Pielinen. Near my campsite a farmer has staked his hay in a curious tall mounds. The campground is not very full so I have the kitchen largely to myself and there is a restaurant with a buffet. In the evening the sky is full of a massive flock of squaking bean geese. Storm clouds gather. In the far horizon a gold ray of light highlights the forest.
Karelia is the birth place of the Kalevala, the Finnish epic collection of folklore. Most of the myths and legends originated from this part of the country, in the deep forest. I will get a chance to experience the scenery that caused the creation of these legends, where the main heroes vanquish their foes by out-singing them.
Karelia is the birth place of the Kalevala, the Finnish epic collection of folklore. Most of the myths and legends originated from this part of the country, in the deep forest. I will get a chance to experience the scenery that caused the creation of these legends, where the main heroes vanquish their foes by out-singing them.
1 comment:
Hi Bob -
Sounds like you are deep into Finland and having some great adventures. Daniel and I talked about you over lunch this week. Keep pedalin' ~ Bill S
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