Wednesday, August 8, 2007

Crossing the Arctic Circle, Discovering a Giant Snowman


It is hard to leave Ruka after three days of R&R in my luxurious apartment, but within an hour of renewing my quest it seems that the sauna, two couches and the Muppets in Finnish, had become only a distant dream.The day is fine with a threat of rain (of course), but nothing that I cannot handle. By mid-afternoon, I have reached the fabled Arctic Circle. I expect a government survey marker, but in true Finnish style there is only a 30-foot tall inflatable snowman and a coffee shop. I pose with snowman, then celebrate my entry into the Arctic with coffee and donuts. Along with way, at a monument to a Winter War battle, a Finnish couple having a picnic offers me coffee and biscuits.

By evening I had reach Kemijärvi after a long 75 mile day. Just as I pull into the campground I encounter three other cyclists; one young man and two older men. Later, after we had all pitched our tents, I introduce myself. The young chap's name is Timo and he speaks some English. Timo tells me he and his father and his father's friend started from the "top" of Finland and are heading south to Turku. "It's downhill on the map," he says, when I note that the only cross-country cyclists I have encountered are all going south. Timo provides me with valuable information about the road north. It seems that after I rest a bit in Rovaniemi I will face about eight days of travel. At some point I will reached the dreaded "Fells" long hillocks that I've become to call the Hills of Bicycle Death. Timo grimaced when he described the day they had to cross the Fells. "It was very bad," he said. He also warned me about putting the bike on the bus. His bike and his father's bike sustained damage during a bus trip to their starting point. The driver shoved the bikes in with little regard to fragile components. Timo and I talk long into the night, and exchange e-mail addresses in the morning.

1 comment:

Markku said...

You say: "but nothing that I couldn't handle"

I read that and reailize you have been innoculated with SISU!

Congratulations